Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Thandanthottam, a holy and historic village


My ancestral village is about 12 kilometres from Kumbakonam, the town in Tamil Nadu famous for its temples and Mahamagam festival. It is not only a historical, but also a holy village. 

To reach Thandanthottam from Kumbakonam one will have to go via Thirunageswaram (where the Nageswaran  and the Rahu Shrines are located) and past the Uppuyillappan  temple (in which naivedyam presented to the Lord do not have salt), Ayyavadi and Murukkangudi.  A bus facility is now available from Kumbakonam twice a day. 

The legend
It is in this village that sage Agastiya installed the Agasteeswarar Lingam and Abhirami Goddess. It is said that Agastiya, is  present  even now in the shape of a lizard and continues to bless the devotees so that they can achieve what they desire.

Not only Agastiya Muni but also the 68th Sankaracharya Swami of Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam, Sri Chandrasekharendra Saraswati Swami, whom devotees revere as a Walking God, stayed in this village for some time. The 69th Acharya, Sri Jayendra Saraswati Swami also  visited the village. 

Sri Sundaramurthi Nayanar, also known affectionately as Tampiran Tōzhan (Comrade of the Master, meaning friend of Shiva) was an eighth-century poet. He was one of the most prominent Nayanars. In one of his poems he has mentioned that this place is where Lord Siva performed the cosmic dance. This village is also called as Adi Chidambaram. 

It is said that when  all the Devas and sages made a beeline to Kailas to witness the celestial marriage of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati , the earth began to incline towards the North.  Therefore, Lord Shiva called Agastiya Muni and asked him to go the South and balance the earth and bring it to an even level. 

The Lord assured Agastiya Muni that He would come with his consort and enable him to have darshan in their wedding attire (Kalyana Kolam). As assured He appeared before Agastiya Muni as Katyayaani sametha Kalyanasundra Murthy.

Not only did the Lord appear in the marriage attire but also performed the cosmic dance. The Siva temple has come up in the place he performed the dance. The main deity in the temple is Natanapureeswarar.  The Goddess is Sivakama Sundari. 

When the Lord performed the cosmic dance, some of the bells from his dancing bells, fell in different places. Lord Ganesa found them and tied them back to the Lord’s feet. That is why  Agastiya Muni named him Manikatti Pillayar (bell tying Ganesa). One bell fell on the way to the village and the Manikatti Pillayar temple has come there. Another fell in Nadaar village and the Manikandeeswarar temple has been built there. 

It is said that King Nandivarman II, who ruled over Thanjavur, renovated  the temple and performed Kumbhabishekam. The Chera, Chola and Pandya kings also are reported to have worshipped the Lord here. 

The river Arasalar flows to the South of the village. 

The lay of the land
There are five main temples in the village  -- Varasiddhi Vinayakar temple, Sivakamasundari sametha Natanapureeswarar temple, Valli Deivayanai sametha  Muthuvelayudha Swami temple, Sridevi, Bhoodevi sametha Varadaraja Swami temple and Abhirami sametha Agastheeswarar temple. In addition there are small temples for the  Grama Devathas -- Pidari Amman and Saptha Kannikas.

There are two main streets in the village. One is known as North street and the other as South street. The Varasiddhi Vinayakar temple is to the North of the South street. The Ganesa here is very powerful. Not knowing his power, a smuggler tried to take away the idol. He had to cross a canal while taking away the idol. He suddenly became blind and not knowing which way to go he sat down with the idol. The villagers found him and had the idol reinstalled.     The canal is known even today as the “Kuruttu vaikkaal” (the blind channel.)

Right behind the Ganesa temple is the Surya theertham tank.

There are two entrances for the Lord Siva temple in this village. One is in the East, right opposite the main deity and the other is on the southern side. It is this entrance that it very much in

When one enters the temple premises through the southern gate, a well is on the left side while Nandi is on the right.  Exactly opposite this entrance is the shrine for Goddess Sivakamasundari. 


Between Nandi and Goddess Sivakamasundari’s shrine are the Erattai Kalabhairavar ( considered as manifestation of Lord Siva himself.)

The main deity, Lord Natanapureeswarar, the Siva Linga, is about four feet in height.  Right below to the left of the deity is a small Lingam.

On the Southern wall of the temple one finds Dakshinamurthi, facing South and seated on the twelve Zodaic signs. Devotees believe that if one adorns him with a yellow cloth and a garland made of Bengal gram, one would be rid of all  malignant blemishes.

In the South-West corner one will find a separate shrine for Sri  Bala Ganapathi. To the left of this shrine and right behind the main temple is the shrine for Valli Deivayanai sametha Subramanya Swami.  Subramanya appears like Chakrathu Alwar. 

On the Western side of the temple is Jyeshta Devi with a small shrine for Chandikeswarar opposite her.

In the North-Eastern corner is located the Navagraha mantapam.  Originally this was behind the Nandi but as it was difficult to circumambulate (go round it) the mantapam was shifted to the present place. 

A stolen idol            
There was, in this temple, a very rare and beautiful idol of Lord Nataraja, which depicted the sculptural artistry of the Chola period. Usually, one finds the Nataraaja idol with the hair spread.  In the idol in the temple, there was just a single plait. About 50 years ago this was stolen. At the same time the Nataraja idol in Sivapuri was also stolen. It was recovered recently. Let us pray that the the Thandanthottam Nataraja idol will also be recovered soon.    

As Lord Siva appeared long with Parvati Devi as during the marriage ceremony, He is also called Mappillai Swami here, meaning the bride groom God.

In the Tamil month of Vaikasi (May-June) the celestial wedding of Lord Siva and Goddess Parvati is performed on a grand scale in this temple. The Utsava vigrahas (idols) are known as Kalyanasundara Murthi and Katyaayani.

Right behind the Siva temple is the Agni theertham tank.

When the Lord appeared before Agastiswara Muni during the wedding ceremony, the sage asked for two boons. First, he wanted that those who worshipped Natanapureeswarar in this temple should be deemed to have had worshipped all the deities and their consorts in Kailash.  The second boon he wanted was that all obstacles in getting married should vanish if one worshipped in this temple. The Lord granted both the boons. That is why this village is known as the one that removes all obstacles. 

A long time ago, about 3000 Brahmins from the Chola kingdom went and settled down in Palakkad area in Kerala State.  In due course they forgot who their family deity was. Some of them went to the astrologers and some other approached the Mahaswami of Kanchi Kamalkoti Peetam. The Mahaswami told them that Lord Natanapureeswarar was their family deity. Surprisingly that  is what the astrologers also said. 

Though there is the sacred and historic Siva temple in this village, it is the temple of  Sri Valli Deivayanai sametha Lord Muthuvelayudha Swamy that is more popular. 

In all villages, the temple for Lord Ayyanaar will be in the fields outside the village.  But here the Ayyanaar temple is inside the village itself. He is also known as Malayala Sastha here. Though Lord Murugan is the main deity, the temple is  known as Ayyannaar temple. Just outside the sanctum sanctorum are housed Poorna Pushkala sametha Sri Hariharaputra. 

It is said that once upon a time, the idols of  Poorna Pushakala Sametha Hariharaputra were in the main sanctum sanctorum.  A sanyasi who was outside the temple had a dream and heard a voice from heaven which said “I am lying hidden in the earth behind the temple. Remove me and install me in the temple.“   When he did so, he found the idol of Lord Subramanya Swami astride a peacock along with Sri Valli and Sri Devasana (in a single stone.) As directed, he installed the idol in the sanctum sanctorum and shifted the Poorna Pushkala sametha Harihara putra idols.

In the month of Chitirai (April-May) a 10-day festival is observed in the temple. All the residents of the village, irrespective of their caste or creed, participate in the festival. Several devotees from outside the village, many from far off, come to participate in the festival. 

During the 10 days of the festival no one leaves the village for another place.  Those coming from outside do not stay in the village for the night. 

Paar Vettai
On the ninth day of the festival, Lord Velayutha Swami ,on a white horse, and Lord Ayyanar, on a red horse, go out for hunting. It is known as Paar vettai.  Before they embark on the expedition, devotes offer hundreds of garlands to the two deities.

Men carry the idols to a distance of about two kilometres outside the village. The way they run on the parched fields carrying heavy load is worth seeing. 

On that day, colourful rangoli is drawn in front of every house. Red mud is used to make the base on the ground in front of the  houses. (Thitaani) It is a day when the Lord comes out of the temple and gives darshan to the people in front of their houses themselves.. 

After reaching the temple, the men run  backwards  with the idols facing the front . This is known as Minnottam Pinnottam.

Within the premises of the Lord Velayudhaswami temple, there is a room in the South East corner which houses a picture of Lord Venkateswara Swami. It is known as “Govindan Koil.”  In the month of February-March  the agriculturists in the village pile up the produce they had produced as a mark of thanks- giving to the Lord.  On a Saturday in September-October Kamba Servai is observed.  Devotional songs are sung on  the occasion. 

Between the Ganesa temple and the Muthu Velayudha swami temple is located the Perumal – the Sridevi,  Bhudevi sametha Varadaraja Swami – temple. This is said to have been built by one Sri Gopala Iyengar who was the village karnam about 150 years ago. It is believed that Lord Varadaraja Swami bestows what the devotee’s desire.

The Utsava Murthi  (made of metal and taken out in a procession on festival days)  in this temple is a beautiful Navaneetha  Krishnan, holding butter in his hand.  He is seen with his right leg in a lifted position. Other idols in the temple are of Sri Lakshminarayan, Sri Visvaksena, Sri Anjaeya and Sri Udayavar.  Garuda Bhagwan is right opposite Lord Varadaraja Swami.

Copper Plates    
About 200 years ago, while the ground was being dug to construct the compound wall for the Lord  Natanapureeswarar temple, 14 copper plates were found along with several granite idols. They were strung on a ring with a seal bearing an indistinct legend and a bull.  Some plates from the beginning, middle and end are said to be missing.

The copper plates indicate that the Pallava kings distributed land to Brahmins to recite the Vedas and Mahabharatam in the temple. 244 names are found in the copper plates. The names of the places like Karamchedu and Tanuku, from where they were brought , indicate that several of them were from the Andhra region.